Force lasted shoe



June 24, 19 7. J. s. KAMBORIAN ET AL 2,422,684

FORCE LASTED SHOE Original Filed Sept. 22, 1943 VIJIIIJII/l/Ill/l/III jz VIIIIIIIIIIIII/I'IIIIIIIIIIA M67561??? @005 .91 Mar am fig rad ZTra y W7 fi r Patented June 24, 1947 FORCE LASTED SHOE Jacob S. Kamborian, West Newton, Mass., and Wilfred T. Tracy, New York, N. Y., said Tracy assignor to said Kamborian Original application September 22, 1943, Serial No. 503,336. Divided and this application May 23, 1945, Serial No. 595,330

Claims. (01. ec -1 9.5)

This invention relates to the manufacture of footwear, and while in certain aspects it is of broader utility, it is more particularly concerned with the manufacture of the so-called sliplasted, California, platform or forcelasted type. This application is a division of the co-pending application Serial No. 503,336 filed September 22, 1943.

In this type of shoe the usual stiff inner sole is omitted and replaced by a thin, soft and flexible element (commonly termed the sock lining in this type of shoe) customarily of textile fabric and which is stitched directly to the upper prior to lasting. A middle sole, usually comprising a thick, soft and cushion-like element, semi-sole or platform is cemented to the under side of the sock lining, and an outer sole is cemented to the under surface of the middl sole. The upper includes an integral skirt portion, extension or wrapper of flexible material which continues downwardly from approximately the level of the sock lining, and either covers and protects the edges of the middle sole (being interposed between the middle and outer soles), or is lasted-in directly over the sock lining and concealed by the middle sole.

Hitherto it has been customary to sew the wrapper to the lower margin of the upper, the sewing stitches passing through all of the various constituent plies (including the outer element and lining) of the upper. Since this sewed seam which permanently unites the several plies of the upper is substantially at the level of the last bottom, it is impossible to dispose a moulded flanged counter or toe box between the lining and the outer element of the upper.

One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a novel shoe embodying the recognized economies of force lasting, but which comprises a toe box or a counter or both, and to provide a novel method of making such a shoe.

As above noted, it is customary to make the wrapper as a separate element which is united to the lower portion of the upper proper by a sewed seam, but in accordance with the present invention, it is contemplated that this wrapper (whether or not a. moulded counter or box toe be employed) may be integral with the outer member of the upper, thereby eliminating the external shoulder which occurs at the junction of the upper and wrapper in prior shoes of this type. By this novel arrangement hereby provided, the shoe is made to appear more nearly like shoes lasted according to conventional methods. These and other objects and advantages of forced into the upper.

the invention will be pointed out more fully in the following detailed description and by reference to the accompanying drawings wherein:

Fig. 1 is side elevation of a lasted upper made in accordance with the present invention, prepared for the application of the usual sole and heel.

Fig. 2 is a transverse diagrammatic section, to larger scale, through the toe end of the shoe, for example, inthe plane of line 22 of Fig. l, the last being omitted;

Fig. 3 illustrates a modification of the structure shown in Fig. 2;

- Fig. 4 is a view showing the upper and sock lining assembled directly with a sole member;

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 4 but showing a construction which includes a middle sole and an outer sole;

Fig. 6 is a transverse diagrammatic section of the upper and sock lining of Figs. 2 and 3; and

Fig. 7 is a similar transverse diagrammatic section of the upper and sock lining of Figs. 4 and 5.

Referring to the drawings the numeral l designates the upper of a shoe, shown in Fig. 1 as mounted upon a last 2, the upper including a moulded counter 3 and a toe box or stiffener 4.

In accordance with one procedure, as illustrated in Fig. 2, the upper comprises an outer element I which may be of leather, fabric or the like, and lining l The lining I is secured by th stitched inseam 6 to the margin of a sock lining 5. This sock lining may be of any suitable material but is usually quite thin as compared with the conventional insole and is of textile fabric or the like. As illustrated in Fig. 6, the inseam stitches do not pass through the outer element l of the upper.

After the sock lining and upper lining have been united by the inseam stitches, the last '2 is Since the lining l and the outer element l are not connected at their lower edges it is readily possible to insert stiffener elements between these parts of the upper at the toe or heel end or both. For example, a moulded toe box 4 may be inserted at the toe of the shoe, for instatnce by turning back the outer element l of the upper, so as to expose the forward end of the lasted lining, and, after the toe box has been put in position and cemented to the lining and preferably externally coated with adhesive, the outer element l may be turned down so as to cover the toe stiffener. Likewise at the heel end of the shoe a moulded countenof more or less conventional type if desired, may be introduced between the outer element l and the lining of 3 the upper, In accordance with this invention the wrapper is an integral portion of the outer element I of the upper. Thus the outer element I is furnished with the integral skirt portion I designed to constitute the wrapper. As shown in .Fig. 2,'an' end stifiener member 4 has been inand the middle sole l I is applied so asto conceal This in-' this lasted-in portion of the wrapper.

In Fig. 3: a slight the upper at the heel portion of the shoe, that the sole member is secured to the bottom surface of the sock lining and extends over the secured edges of the sock lining and the lining of the upper, that the outer element of the upper has an integral extension which constitutes a wrapper that extends beyond the secured edges of the sock lining and the lining of the upper and is lasted in against the bottom surface of lasting of the marginal portion of the wrapper may be performed in any desired manner, but is accomplished very readily by the employment of a lasting machine such as that disclosed in the patent to Kamborian No. 2,251,285, dated August 5, 1941. After the middle sole has thusbeen applied and the margin of the wrapper wiped or lasted-in, an outer sole (not, shown) may be secured by adhesive to the under surface of the middle sole l I, the outer sole concealing the marginal portions l of the wrapper.

A- further modification employing such an integral wrapper as that just described is shown in Figs. 4 and 7. In these views the inseam stitches at 6 extend through the margin of. the sock lining 5, the upper lining I an the outer element l of'the upper, the integral wrapper I projecting beyond this inseam. After the last has been inserted in the upper, the wrapper portiOn" P is lasted inwardly as illustrated in Fig. 5. Preferably sufiicient stress is exerted to draw the inseam 6 inwardly over the bottom of the last so that when the sole member S is applied the inseam stitches are concealed. Obviously the upper lining may be omitted, and the outer ele' ment I may be marked to indicate the proper location of the seam 6 In Fig. 5','the lining W and the outer element of" the upper are-shown as united to the sock lining by the inseam 6 A middle sole H overlies the inseam and is secured to the sock liningand the marginal portion- I of the outer element l is arranged as a wrapper to conceal the edge of the middle sole H and with its edge portion underlying the middle sole and concealed by the outer sole S. 7

While the term forced lasted hasherein been adopted as an accurate and convenient designation, it is to be understood that this term signifies any shoe or article of footwear of the so called California, platform, slip-lasted or similar type.

While certain desirable embodimentsof the invention have beenillustrated and the mode of making'the several modified structures has been described by way of example, it is to be under stood thatthe invention is not necessarily limited tothe precise arrangements or proceduresthus disclosed,- but is tobe regarded as broadly inclusive ofany and all modifications-falling within the-scope of the appended claims.

We claim:

1-. A force lasted shoe of the kind having a socklining, amulti-ply upper comprising a lining and an outer element, a heel stiffener flanged at its lower edge, and a sole member, characterizedin that the margin of the sock lining is secured tothe lower edge 1 of the lining only of between the lining and the outer element of the upper with its flange bearing against the secured edges of the sock lining and the lining of 3 the upper.

'2'. A force lasted shoe of the kind having a sock lining, a multi-ply upper comprising a lining and an outer element, a toe stiffener flanged at its lower edge, and a cushion sole, characterized in that the margin of the sock lining is secured to the lower edge of the lining only of the upper at the heeland toe portions of the shoe; and extends over the secured edges of the sock liningand the lining of the upper, that the outer element of the upper has an integral extension which constitutes a wrapper that extends beyond the secured edges of the sock lining andthe-lining of the upper and is lasted-in over said secured edges upon the bottom surface of the cushion sole whereb the edge of the cushion sole is covered and concealed by said extension and that the toe stiffener is inserted between the lining and outer element of the upper with its flange bearing against the secured edges of the portions respectively of the shoe; that the sole member is secured to the bottom surface of the sock lining and extends over the secured edges of the sock lining and the lining of the upper and that the outer element of the upper is unattached to the sock lining and has an integral extension which constitutes a wrapper that extends' beyond the secured edges of the sock lining, that the lining of the upper is lasted-in over the side edges of the sole member upon the bottom surface thereof and that the toe and heel stifieners are interposed between the lin ing and the outer element of the upper at the toe and heel portions respectively of the shoe with their flanges bearing against thesecured edges of" the sock lining and the lining of the up 4. A force lasted shoe of the kind having a soci; lining, a inulti-ply upper comprising a liningand an outer element, an end stiffener flanged at its'lower edge and a sole member characterized in that the margin of the sock lining is secured to the lower edge" of the lining only of the up"- per at the heel portion ofthe shoe, that the outer element of the upper-is unattached to'sai'dsock lining and has anintegral extension which constitutes a wrapper and extends beyond the lower edge of the lining of the upper, that the stiffener is inserted between the-lining and outer element of the upper with its flange bearing against the secured edges ofthe sock lining and the lining oi the upper, that the sole member is secured to the bottom surface of the sock lining and to the fiange of the stifiener and that the wrapper extension of the outer element of the upper is lasted-in over the side edge of the sole member upon the bottom surface thereof.

5. A force-lasted shoe of the kind having a sock lining, a multi-ply upper comprising a lining and an outer element, an end stifiener flanged at its lower edge and a sole member, characterized in that the margin of the sock lining is secured to the lower edge of the lining only of the upper, that the outer element of the upper at the heel portion of the shoe is unattached to said sock lining and has an integral extension which constitutes a wrapper and extends beyond the lower edge of the lining of the upper, that the stiffener is inserted between the linin and outer element of the upper with its flange bearing against the secured edges of the sock lining and the lining of the upper, that the sole member is secured to the bottom surface of the sock lining, and that the wrapper extension of the outer element of the upper is lasted-in over the flange of the stifiner and about the edge of the sole member.

JACOB S. KAMBORIAN.

WIILFRED T. TRACY.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,111,705 Tobacco Mar, 22, 1938 2,339,726 Stritter Jan. 18, 1944 

